Paris II
Everything in Paris draws the eyes up. The decorative embellishments and molding on the ceilings of our bedroom was a delight to study as I drift to sleep each night. From thirty foot church doors, massive statues above eye level, spires, gargoyles, pillars and columns, and ceiling frescos my neck craned throughout the city.
When did we stop doing architecture and design in a manner that draws the gaze above eye level? It’s wonderful! What a posture. It’s hard to ignore how hunched we have become as a result of the little handheld screens we keep in our purse and pocket. Paris was a lovely reminder of the grandeur of life— the vertical posture I am missing.
The latter part of our time in Paris moved to a slower beat.
One day we start the morning on Rue de Lévis. We grabbed Pôlaine pastries and took them to the neighboring Parc Monceau. Our family sat at two park benches. We watched the runners and carousel while we gobbled down flaky apple and pear tarts.
Our espresso in little Dixie cups with lids. With much enthusiasm, I hope to recreate the apple tart I had at home. I never thought to use apple jam in an handpie. The thicker consistency was beautiful at room temperature. I was sad I did not order two.
Rue de Lévis was a lovely street to meander. The girls shopped Le Petit Souk and a farmstand next door. Our youngest select a peach and pear to take on our exploration for the day. The leather skinned grocer with salt and pepper hair was completely amused by our four year old ogling his produce. She’d pick up a plum, squeeze and smell it before sitting it down, declaring it wasn’t quite ripe yet. He was really pleased and I could tell she started his day with humor.
We all sat for a bit of cheese and a pair of Americano’s at Le Village Cafe. It was too pretty not to stop with its dangling artificial flowers from jute pendant lights all in a row. Even the menus were pink and teal and girlie. The girls and I drank still water with our pinkies out while the boys decimate a cheeseboard.
The view from Mont Martre made us feel like we were floating with Paris was at our feet. We stay for a long time on top of the hill; resting, playing, and enjoying the produce our little girl selected.
Then it was off Ladurée for macaroons and Rosie Lou for supper. The truffle Mac and cheese and desserts were unforgettable. There was plenty of space for our family and others to spread out with crayons and notebooks in the upstairs loft.
Our waitress, Roselyn, made up for our poor French with really good English. She was delightful. The girls left her with a piece of artwork. She immediately recognized herself holding hands with them under a rainbow. An inauguration sketch of her honorary family membership.
Another afternoon we had big bowls of soup with handmade noodles teased through the fingers of an expert chef. Les Nouilles Desantes was the perfect stop for healing Asian cuisine. After the whirlwind of travel Zachary slowly started feeling unwell and the brothy soup was nourishing to his bones.
In the evening we muster enough strength to see Notre Dame and street skate performers. Then we set out to celebrate our son’s fourteenth birthday with toasts and praise at a vegan restaurant— shh, don’t tell him there wasn’t any meat in the pasta! I don’t think he missed it. He did, however, request we return to Lazare for his own helping of praline pastry which was attacked with vigor and gone in mere moments.
The children are not used to seeing people smoke and were astonished by the prevalence of cigarettes. When dining outdoors, the second hand smoke added an unusual layer to the cuisine — the pickled flavors of the complimentary cornishon and pearl onions are somehow heightened by a clouds of nicotine.
Our smaller accommodations in Paris taught us to lean into new courtesies like taking turns for the single toilette and shower. Also, keeping the limited space tidy enough to maneuver about. Honestly, the closer the quarters the more interaction we have together. We congregate in the common spaces and around tables everywhere to share fun moments huddled closer together.